Carrying the watermelon clutch on the red carpet at the Cannes Film Festival was Kani Kusruti’s way of showing solidarity with Palestine. Known for her role in “All We Imagine As Light,” the actor chose a poignant symbol—a watermelon slice—which mirrors the colors of the Palestinian flag and has become an emblem of resistance against Israeli occupation. This symbolic accessory accompanied Kusruti as she celebrated the film’s victory in securing the Grand Prix at Cannes 2024.
The intricately designed green, red, and black beaded bag made a powerful statement, thoughtfully crafted by Kochi-based designer and stylist Diya John. Diya, who runs the designer label Salt and operates Salt Studio in Kochi, collaborated closely with Kani to bring this vision to life.
“We bounced about ideas on how she wanted to be styled. Kani mentioned incorporating an element that would show solidarity with Palestine,” Diya John explained. The result was a handcrafted masterpiece that required extensive planning and artistic execution. Despite having offers from several international labels, Kani Kusruti opted for a homegrown designer, emphasizing the importance of representing Kerala on such a prestigious platform. Many of the outfits she wore at Cannes were designed and styled by Diya.
Although Kani had a clear objective, she was initially unsure about the method. “Any kind of inscription on a garment would be too loud. We wanted it to be poetic, we wanted it to be subtle,” Diya shared. They considered various ideas, including a brooch, embroidery, and patchwork but wanted something that would be noticeable yet elegant. Through numerous discussions, they landed on the idea of incorporating the watermelon slice motif, a subtle yet powerful nod to the cause.
“The conversations stimulated my brain. I thought it would be interesting to include Indian craft too,” Diya said. The creation of Kani’s wardrobe for the festival events spanned three weeks, from initial ideation to final execution.
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The watermelon bag was the result of painstaking labor. Two skilled artisans, known as karigars, meticulously worked on the beaded embroidery, which took over 20 hours. The construction of the bag itself required an additional six hours. “Initially, we made a sample swatch in order to get an idea of the work. I wanted a 3D effect, which my karigars were able to translate on fabric,” Diya detailed.
Due to time constraints, the team had to utilize materials readily available. “We had to make do with the materials that were available at hand; there was hardly any time to go sourcing for stuff,” Diya elaborated. The embroidery was done on gaji or mashru silk, and the bag was given structure with the help of board and fusing so it could maintain its shape. Besides being a statement piece, the bag was functional and could carry essential items such as a mobile phone and lipstick.
Diya’s work extended beyond just the clutch. She carefully curated an outfit that would harmonize with the accessory. They selected an off-white dress made of Benarasi silk with woven gold and silver motifs. “The Palestinian flag also has white, so Kani carrying the bag could make quite the statement,” Diya remarked. “With Kani in a white dress, the bag would stand out. Besides, off-white is also a color associated with Kerala.”
Kani Kusruti’s thoughtful wardrobe and symbolic watermelon clutch at Cannes underscored her commitment to social and political issues, bringing a blend of cultural significance and contemporary style to the international stage. Her decision to collaborate with a local designer not only highlighted her roots but also emphasized the importance of art and fashion as powerful tools for advocacy.
