Widely hailed for bringing the vibrant and intricate aesthetics of feudal Japan to life, the television series “Shōgun” captivates audiences not just through its compelling narrative, but also through its meticulously designed visual presentation. At the heart of the show’s striking visuals lies the artistry of costume designer Carlos Rosario, who has substantially contributed to its authentic recreation of the 17th Century Japanese world.
Shōgun, a 10-episode arc that adapts the first of James Clavell’s Asian Saga novels, has gathered critical acclaim for the remarkable realism and detail in portrayal of its setting. Rosario, in a recent virtual conversation from Los Angeles, went into the laborious process that went into achieving those praised aesthetics, especially regarding the costumes—a testament to his 16-month commitment to the project.
Engaging in an elaborate show such as Shōgun, especially one steeped in a period dense with cultural and hierarchical intricacies, called for an investigation into the past. “It was a complicated show, set in a complicated period, with characters of different ranks,” Rosario says. He emphasizes that understanding the “language of the clothing” of the Sengoku Period was critical in accurately representing the myriad characters on screen.
Rosario’s relationship with fashion and culture is longstanding and has a personal touch, with his roots being traced to Puducherry, India, where he once lived for seven months, and to an Ayurvedic retreat experience in Kerala. For Shōgun, Rosario and his team scoured museum websites globally and delved into extensive historical research. “We looked at period armour and costumes,” he expressed. To deepen their understanding, they consulted with historians, experts, and consultants alike, soaking up knowledge regarding the Sengoku Period, the pivotal time frame of the series.
Art played a pivotal role in providing historical insights when photographs were nonexistent. Rosario, born in France to Spanish parents, laughs as he mentions, “We analysed and dissected the paintings of that period, the patterns and colours.”
The production’s executive producer, Edward L McDonnell, introduced Rosario to the series creators Justin Marks and Rachel Kondo. Following Rosario’s previous collaboration with McDonnell and a rigorous interview process marked by an immense preparatory research, he was hired for the task. As per Marks’ vision, Shōgun had to embody authenticity and accuracy—a challenge that Rosario was eager to accept and fulfill.
Initially unable to find the requisite fabrics in Los Angeles and New York, Rosario took the search international, employing two individuals in Japan to procure authentic materials. “All the beautiful fabrics that you see on screen came directly from Japan,” Rosario revealed, explaining how the costly and distinctive textiles were shipped in bolts, their uniqueness ensuring a faithful representation of the period’s essence. This endeavor received financial backing from FX, the production company, allowing the series’ costumes to be fabricated from such genuine resources.
Designating a favorite among his creations, however, is a formidable task for Rosario. The characters’ costumes are all endearing to him, each constructed with a unique backstory and significance. Among his favorites are the costumes worn by Lady Ochiba, portrayed by Fumi Nikaido, and two jinbaori—a type of surcoat worn over armor—of Lord Toranaga, played by Hiroyuki Sanada. Craftsmanship shines through the details, such as one of Toranaga’s jinbaori, intricately made of hand-stitched peacock feathers and another crafted with wood and metal components tied with colored cording.
Comparing the pace of television with film, Rosario, who has experience in both realms, including movies like “Don’t Breathe” and “The Girl in the Spider’s Web,” remarks with a chuckle on the rushed nature of TV production, pointing how Shōgun’s episodes possess the grandeur of films, yet must be produced with far less preparation time.
Rosario, who has clothed stars like Reese Witherspoon and Joaquin Phoenix, dreams of designing for Meryl Streep and Jane Fonda, adding to his cherished memories of working with the late Robin Williams. Inspired to enter the world of costume design by the classic film “Gone with the Wind” and his grandmother, a patternmaker, Carlos grew up fascinated by the fabric work on his family’s table.
Shōgun is currently available for streaming on Disney+ Hotstar, with episodes released every Tuesday until April 23, 2024, inviting viewers to immerse themselves in a show that, through the lens of Carlos Rosario’s costume designs, celebrates the elaborate beauty and complexity of Japan’s feudal era.
