When Punjabi musician-actor Diljit Dosanjh made his debut on The Tonight Show Starring Jimmy Fallon, he engineered a look rooted in tradition, but one which was garnished with a luxurious blend of ultra-chic brands that spoke to a global audience.
Diljit’s fashion philosophy involves fusing traditional garments with contemporary global brands. His ensemble on The Tonight Show showcased a meticulously tailored outfit by renowned couturier Raghavendra Rathore. The look featured an ivory, sequined kurta-chaadra paired with ultra-modern accessories like an Audemars Piguet watch customized with diamond-studded dial, straps, and bezel by Jain The Jeweler and a pair of high-ankle Air Jordans. This striking combination demonstrated how traditional and modern styles could coexist harmoniously.
Diljit’s stylistic transformation was no coincidence. Rathore reveals, “Our teams connected over a long-distance Zoom call in March this year, giving us nearly a month to execute the project as Diljit’s tour began in April.” This virtual collaboration posed challenges, especially in fine-tuning proportions, colors, and textures. “But we managed to get everything right in one easy lot of sketches we did with swatches and fabrics,” Rathore explains. It was a priority project, ensuring timely shipping of the outfits was crucial.
The overall design mandate was clear: everything had to complement the turlay wali pagg, Diljit’s pleated-fan turban. Rathore was struck by Diljit’s humility and attention to the values that resonate with the brand. “He emphasized simplicity and style rooted in heritage,” Rathore notes. The outfits were designed with shimmer, keeping in mind the cities where Diljit would perform.
The kurta and tehmat, tamba, or chaadra, are quintessential folk dresses often sported by men in Punjab’s hinterland and have been popularized by doyens of Punjabi music from Lal Chand Yamla Jatt and Kuldeep Manak to Gurdaas Maan and Surjit Bindrakhia. This attire forms the cornerstone of Diljit’s on-stage style. However, he also draws from the Western fashion influenced by NRIs who defined the look of Punjabi music in the late ‘90s and early 2000s, with trailblazers like Sukhbir, Jazzy B, Dr. Zeus, and Bally Sagoo.
The modern twist in Diljit’s outfit comes from swapping the traditional embroidered vest with a harness, an accessory popularized by actors like Timothée Chalamet and Michael B.
. Jordan. His footwear choice, high-ankle sneakers, also injects a contemporary flair, guiding Rathore’s choice of color palette for the outfits. “Our focus was on the colors of the shoes he likes,” Rathore says. “When you shorten the kurta and tighten up the area, the whole look becomes super contemporary.”
Creating performance-ready attire presented its own set of challenges. Rathore had to craft an embroidered kurta that was both comfortable and durable enough for hours of dancing. “When you embroider on a thin kurta fabric, you risk irritation. We added a lighter texture with sequins and shimmer to minimize any discomfort,” Rathore explains.
Fabrics such as cotton blends, silks, and satins were integral to the bespoke looks. “Embroideries took inspiration from traditional techniques like kantha, phulkari, and zardozi, creating contemporary motifs for a global stage,” Rathore elaborates. Handcrafted textures provided unique fabric bases, ensuring the outfits had a timeless appeal. “Some were just tailored, but all were designed to resonate on a global platform,” he adds.
This project marked Rathore’s first experience designing for an on-stage performer of such stature. “Designing for films like Eklavya and Khoobsurat is different because a movie targets a particular segment. A musician like Diljit crosses all segments of society,” Rathore points out. The focus was always on Diljit, making the brand serve as a provider rather than the centerpiece.
Despite lacking a vast team of stylists, Diljit Dosanjh orchestrates a fashion symphony that exudes originality. His style strikes a unique chord, defining the essence of a global desi rockstar.
