The mention of woven Benares saris often evokes memories of cherished heirloom saris adorned with traditional Indian motifs. While the timeless appeal of a sari from a grandmother’s wardrobe remains, envision a line of Benares saris that blend Indian brocade techniques with French design influences. This vision has materialized in the form of Varanasi to Versailles, a new collection by textile designers Swati Agarwal and Sunaina Jalan for their signature label Swati & Sunaina Gold (@swatiandsunaina on Instagram). This collection represents a marriage of French romanticism and Benares weaving techniques such as rang-kat, tanchoi, kadhua, jamdani, and dampach. The collection was unveiled in Hyderabad through a curated show, presented by Gaurang Shah and Pratiksha Prashant at Gaurang’s Kitchen, Jubilee Hills.
Some of these exquisite saris took over a year to weave, featuring Chantilly lace and French-inspired motifs such as violins, chariots, lions, sunrises, and ribbons. The color palette ranges from delicate European pastels to rich jewel tones, each one a symphony of weaves, textures, colors, and patterns. Picture a rang-kat sari in a diagonal pattern or in mosaics resembling ripples of water, crafted with a blend of colors and textures. Some saris utilize a mix of silk yarns—eri, muga, mulberry, tussar, and zari. The weavers have gone beyond simple color blending (rang-kat); they have experimented extensively with different yarns and textures. A few saris are even paired with two blouses, one showcasing traditional Indian brocades and the other French lace.
The journey to create this collection spanned four years, reflecting the designers’ penchant for innovation. Their earlier collections featured influences from Persian miniature paintings and Oriental designs. The cornerstone of their brand, as Swati and Sunaina emphasize, lies in their use of pure zari. “The zari used in our work is 98.5% pure silver and is electroplated in 24-karat gold. Many in the industry use 40-50% silver, which is then alloyed with copper and dipped in gold.
. By using pure silver zari, we achieve greater malleability for intricate designs,” Swati explains. Sunaina adds that this method also makes the saris lightweight, owing to the fine zari used on yarns ranging from silks to muslin and tissue.
Elements of French romanticism such as ribbons, bows, and floral patterns have been seamlessly integrated into Benares weaves. The conceptualization of the Varanasi to Versailles collection began in early 2020. Swati and Sunaina were in Paris just days before the first lockdown, exploring museums with their close associates. The inspiration for experimentation grew as they continued to uncover more during their visits. The project took shape amid the pandemic, allowing for extensive research to be conducted. “Not many know that France once had a zari weaving unit, which they refer to as metallic yarn. The Maharaja of Mysore was the first to bring such a unit to India, recreated by a Benares weaver from memory,” says Swati.
The designers revisited France to procure laces, which they then incorporated into saris as both embellishments and integral weaves. “The French tradition of using gold and silver together as well as combining colors like greys and blues inspired us to experiment in our collection,” Swati elaborates. The Varanasi to Versailles collection encompasses not just saris, but also lehengas, a few ready-to-wear blouses, dupattas, and even woven silk belts. “We are not introducing new product lines but offering our buyers accessories to complete their look,” Swati notes.
This innovative collection stands as a testament to the designers’ vision of merging traditional Indian craftsmanship with global influences. Each piece celebrates the artistry and dedication of the weavers, as well as the enriching journey of cultural synthesis. As Swati and Sunaina continue their exploration of cross-cultural design, they reaffirm their commitment to pushing the boundaries of textile art, creating timeless pieces that resonate with both Indian heritage and modern elegance.
