In the meticulous process of recreating history on the silver screen, nailing the look of the characters is among the critical steps, especially when the character in question is a former Prime Minister of India, Indira Gandhi. Sheetal Sharma, the costume designer for the film “Emergency,” reveals that ensuring authenticity was actor-director Kangana Ranaut’s utmost priority.
Kangana Ranaut, set to portray Indira Gandhi in the biopic, devoted significant effort to capture the essence of the former Indian leader. “Kangana tirelessly sought references from archival videos of Mrs. Gandhi’s speeches, newspaper articles, and albums from the Parliament,” Sharma explains, emphasizing the dedication behind the transformation process.
The film, “Emergency,” which also features Anupam Kher as Jayaprakash Narayan and Shreyas Talpade as Atal Bihari Vajpayee, spans from the 1960s to the 1980s. The narrative emphasizes the tumultuous period of the 1975 Emergency declared by Indira Gandhi. For Ranaut, it was crucial that the audience saw her as a spitting image of the late Prime Minister. Sharma recalls, “In the Netflix series ‘The Crown,’ Elizabeth Debicki remarkably resembled Lady Diana. Kangana aspired to achieve a similar level of authenticity, imitating Indira Gandhi down to the minutest details.”
Achieving such authenticity meant recreating Gandhi’s sartorial choices with precision. “We replicated what she wore during pivotal moments like the Shimla Agreement signing or when she took the oath as the PM. The recreation wasn’t limited to her clothes but extended to her shawl draping style, her iconic French chiffon sarees paired with khadi blouses, and her distinct hairstyle,” Sharma elaborates.
Given the importance of accuracy, replicating some of Gandhi’s looks involved more than just selecting similar fabrics; it required custom weaving. Sheetal Sharma shares an instance that underscores this commitment: “For certain looks, we hired skilled weavers to create sarees from scratch, matching the original fabrics and prints. The saree she wore the day she was assassinated is preserved in the Indira Gandhi Memorial Museum in Delhi. We took detailed pictures to ensure a faithful reproduction.”
Another notable example is the stunning white silk saree Indira Gandhi wore at her son Sanjay Gandhi’s wedding, replicated with meticulous attention to detail. Ranaut’s commitment to authenticity extended beyond her character. She insisted that other characters also resembled the real-life politicians they were portraying.
. This meant that the entire cast underwent a similar transformation to maintain the film’s historical accuracy.
This dedication to detail certainly had its challenges. The process involved extensive research and collaboration with experts to ensure the authenticity of every element. Each piece of clothing and accessory was chosen to reflect the era accurately. The fabrics had to be sourced from specific regions, and prints had to be historically accurate. Even the way sarees were draped was scrutinized to ensure it matched the way Indira Gandhi wore them.
The collaborative effort also extended to the film’s hairstylists and makeup artists. Indira Gandhi’s iconic hairstyle became a crucial aspect of the transformation. For this, Kangana worked closely with stylists to perfect the look. Every effort was made to capture the texture and volume of Gandhi’s hair as it appeared during significant periods of her life. The attention to detail was meticulous, from the salt-and-pepper waves to the way she styled it for various public appearances.
Besides Kangana’s transformation, great care was taken in designing the wardrobes of other key figures portrayed in the film. For instance, Anupam Kher, who plays Jayaprakash Narayan, and Shreyas Talpade, who portrays Atal Bihari Vajpayee, also underwent significant transformations. Their costumes were designed to reflect their personalities and the specific time periods they represent in the film.
The result of these combined efforts is a visual tapestry that brings the era of the 1970s and 1980s to life. Audiences are transported back in time, experiencing the turbulent period of the Emergency through the authentic portrayal of its key figures. This dedication to historical accuracy not only honors the real-life characters but also provides viewers with an immersive and educational experience.
In conclusion, the making of “Emergency” is more than just a film project; it is a tribute to historical authenticity and the painstaking efforts of a dedicated team. Kangana Ranaut’s portrayal of Indira Gandhi, aided by Sheetal Sharma’s precise costume design, ensures that the audience sees a genuine representation of the former Prime Minister. This commitment to replicating reality is a testament to the filmmakers’ respect for history and their dedication to delivering a compelling and truthful narrative to the audience.
